When trying to give a room polish, distinctive style and detail, one sure way to do it is to install decorative  custom moldings from your #1 source Midwest Moulding & Door.

 In addition to crown moldings, you can buy baseboard, chair rail, window and door casing and many other molding styles at lumberyards and molding and millwork shops.   The illustration at left shows just a few basic types-including some pattern variations-and where they go in a room.  Browsing through a molding dealer’s selection is the best way to shop for styles.  As you do this, be aware that you can combine several moldings to make a single large one-a complicated cornice molding, for example.

How to purchase the right amount of moulding?

  Moldings are priced by the lineal foot, ranging from about 30 cents for small, simple patterns to more than $15 for ornate architectural styles.  Paint-grade pine or poplar is less expensive than oak or other hardwood moldings. You must first determine where your new moulding is going and estimate the quantity. Mouldings are available in 3 to 16 ft. lengths. Whenever possible, try to use shorter pieces to your actual length. 

Make a list of the specific lengths you will need and round your measurements up to the nearest foot to allow for trimming. For example 9'5" measurement you will round up to a 10' pcs.
	Measuring When measuring for miters (ex. windows) use the outside dimensions v.s. the inside dimensions, to ensure the proper length. Also remember to round up.

Tools and prepping your new trim.

To cut and install moldings, you’ll need a wooden miter box with a 10- or 11-point crosscut saw, coping saw, measuring tape, combination square, hammer, nail set and finishing tools such as paintbrush and sandpaper.  If you have a lot of moldings to cut, you may find a power miter saw (“chop saw”) fitted with sharp, fine-toothed blade very helpful.  These cost $375 and up to purchase, but can be rented for $35 a day or less.

             If you’ll be painting the moldings, your work can be a little less precise than if you intend to stain.  Gaps and slight joint separations can be spackled and sanded prior to painting and you can-and should- run a bead of latex caulking compound along the joints between molding and walls or other surfaces.  (You can only use spackling and caulking compounds if you intend to paint; on stained moldings, they receive the stain unevenly.)

            For stained moldings, do the staining before installation.  If you’ll be painting walls, install and touch unstained moldings afterwards.  Painted moldings should be primed with two coats of an oil-or alkyd-based primer before installation (tint the second coat of primer toward your final color).  Fill and sand with 150-grit paper between coats, install moldings, paint walls if necessary and then add the final coat to moldings.

Cutting and Fastening.

             Miter window and door casings and chair rails at the corners by cutting mating pieces at 45-degree angles in a miter box.  A better way to join crown or base moldings at inside corners is to use a coped joint. It’s a good idea to cut, test the fit, and install moldings one at a time.  To be sure each cut is oriented in the right direction, either do the cutting in the room you’re outfitting or make very clear notes about the cuts.

Cutting Mitered Joints                               Most mitred joints will be cut at a 45 degree angle. When trimming the two jointing moulding at this angle they should fit to form a right angle. Try to make it a habit to glue and nail the new joint.

Coping your inside corners.         Coping is an alternative to mitred corners in which the moulding profile, or shape is duplicated to fit against the face of the adjoining moulding.   Trim the moulding at a 45 degree angle. Note the exposed profile serves as your guideline for your coping saw. Follow the profile with the saw at a right angle. When completed you will have a copy of the moulding profile. Butt your coped end into the corner and it should fill the other profile for a complete

             For window and door casings, measure and cut the top piece first, allowing a ¼-inch reveal along the jambs.  Then measure and cut side (and bottom) trim, again allowing a ¼-inch reveal.  Starting at the top, work your way around the opening, fitting the corners tightly and nailing the pieces every 16 inches to the jamb with 4d finishing nails and to the wall framing with 8d finishing nails.

            Before nailing tall base or crown moldings in place, it’s a good idea to mark stud placements on the walls so you’ll know where to nail.  Lightly mark just above base molding or below crown molding positions,  chances are good that studs are on 16-inch centers, doubles up around doors and windows.  If you can’t find them by listening for a solid sound as you knock on the wall with one knuckle, probe with a small drill bit where moldings will cover.  On most walls, there are also a 2´4 base plate and a top plate that run horizontally along the floor and ceiling.  Short moldings can be nailed to these.

            When you nail, don’t “finish off” the nails with the hammer; doing so may dents the wood.  Instead, leave the nails slightly protruding and then set the heads below the surface, using a nail set.  As mentioned above, caulk seams and spackle nail holes before sanding and painting; if staining, carefully fill nail holes with pigmented wood filler and touch up with stain.

  Good Luck !!!!